You can create illusions with your nails just by using some simple polish and shaping* tricks?  Make your fingers appear slimmer by going with almond shaped, rather than round or square nails.  Balance a shorter or wide nail with a squoval shape.  You can even fake a long nail bed with a neutral or opaque pale pink and a nice, natural french.  Check out next weeks New Year New Nails post to see how this simple trick can change your nails from petite to perfect in three easy steps!! And remember the rule of balance: keep your free edge to no longer than the full length of your nail bed for the strongest and most appealing look!

*Remember that shaping and filing should always be done with a grit of higher than 180. For best results, use a 600 grit and light pressure. If you have to "bevel the tips" or run the file along the free edge to remove layers of nail, your grit is too low for your nails. Most nails will be best groomed by a 600 grit.

OK so this is something I've wanted to address for awhile because it seems like when it comes to nail care, cuticles are the thing everyone is getting worked up about.  In a way, I can see why.  A great shaped cuticle compliments your nail art (or polish!) perfectly like a beautiful frame on a masterpeice.  But wonky, dry, mis-shapen cuticles draw attention AWAY from your work and not in a good way. So what exactly IS your cuticle? Well to start you need to know that you actually have TWO cuticles.

Say what? Yeah, TWO.  In a very technical sense, both your primary and your secondary cuticle are the same anatomical thing.  However, they are different and should be treated as such.  So let's take a look at them shall we?

Photo credit to Zadidoll.

 I tried to get a good picture of this but I keep my cuticles in really good shape for the most part and I just finished a series post for you guys so I have nothing really to photograph. The photo above does a great job illustrating this though. The reality is that, in the nail world neither of these things are REALLY a cuticle.  Because they are both cuticle.  The eponychium* shown above is commonly known as both the cuticle OR the primary cuticle.  This cuticle should not be cut unless it is absolutely necessary.  Many people nip them or have them nipped for aesthetic reasons but they're actually doing damage to your nails.  Your primary cuticle protects your nail from damage and also creates a watertight seal. You might notice that if you push too hard with your cuticle pusher, you end up with a 'gap' between the cuticle and your nail plate.  This means you have loosened the secondary cuticle. The secondary cuticle is also reffered to as the pterygium.  This is the cuticle which grows up your nail as the primary cuticle regenerates AND it's the cuticle you'll want to remove.  Think of it this way, removing your primary cuticle is a little like cutting your eyelashes off. You might think it looks really cool, but you're doing a great disservice to your eyes!  Removing your secondary cuticle is more like getting a trim every six weeks.  The ends are dead anyway and if you don't do it, you risk more problems and damage to your hair. See the difference?  So how DO you take care of your cuticles without nipping the primary cuticle?  Well that requires a good set of the right tools and a few great cuticle products.  I have a tools post coming up for you and since I've had some requests I'm also going to add a page which lists the tools and products I love to use at home AND when I work on clients.  So stay tuned for that!! Thanks for following!!

*Please note:  in the professional salon world it is common for the eponychium to be used to refer to live skin which surrounds your nail.  This is also eponychium BUT you should never ever cut it. You will bleed. It will hurt.  It's important to keep in mind that most people use the word cuticle to refer to it! :)

...you should never clip your nails by putting the clippers at the center of your nail bed?  When you put the clippers at the center of your nail, you're putting unnecessary stress on the apex (stress point) of your nail and you can actually cause your nail to crack down the center! Ouch!  When clipping, always use several short clips, moving side to side.  And never peel off a nail which is "mostly" clipped or you'll risk a serious hangnail!  Which clippers are right for you? Let's take a look:

For fingernails, a standard, curved pair of clippers is all you need.  Don't be tempted by fancy slanted clippers or or "one click" clippers.  You should also avoid nail scissors as these weaken the structure of the nail and are difficult to use properly. If you prefer, you may opt for a pair with a rubberized coating for better grip but remember, clippers are only good for six months to a year. Just like scissors or knives, they get too dull after awhile and need to be replaced.  

...your nails need to be conditioned regularly?  Think about this:  how many times do you wash your hair without using a conditioner after?  What about this:  how many times do you wash your hands without using cuticle oil after?  Your nails are made out of the same thing as your hair and they need conditioning just the same!  It's difficult to try to use oil every single time you wash your hands and lotions just don't cut it so aim for twice a day to keep nails looking and feeling healthy!  If you're wearing polish, you should be using a cuticle oil with carrier oils so that the oil will penetrate the polish and do your nails some good (I like Avoplex from OPI or Solar Oil from CND).  Here's a quick and easy way to keep hands AND nails looking great!

You'll need:

Cuticle Oil

Lotion 

 (use a good moisturizing lotion like those made by Hempz OR sub a rich shea butter or other pure moisturizer.  Try to avoid cheap lotions which contain mostly alcohol and are drying to the skin)

Hold your hand palm up with all fingers bent inwards towards your palm.  (Just like how I take my pics!!)  Now swipe or drop cuticle oil over all your fingers and your thumb.  Using the tip of your thumbs, work the cuticle oil into your fingers (remember this is for your nails AND the skin around them so be sure to include all of it!). Then use your finger tips to rub the oil into your thumb.  Your hands should never leave the position they're in while your doing this!!  Continue for a few minutes until most of the oil is absorbed and then apply the lotion as you normally would.  Voila!  Beautiful nails AND hands!

Under Pressure may have bit a hit song in 1981 but your nails will thank you for abstaining!  Try this: grab your file and put it flat on the back of your hand. Now use your index finger to press down at the center of it, using the pressure you'd normally use to file and drag it across your skin.  Feel that?  Your nails do too.  Excessive or aggressive filing, or even using the wrong grit of file can really damage your free edge and lead to breaks, peels, and more!  Now try the experiment again, but this time don't use your index finger. Just glide the file lightly across your hand using no pressure.  Not too bad, huh?  That's all the pressure you need to file your nails.  Start with a 600 or 400 grit file...that's right everyone, A BUFFER.  Drag it GENTLY using minimal pressure across your free edge.  If you're getting the results you need then you don't have to graduate the grit.  If it's not changing the shape then you can use a higher grit but NEVER use additional pressure.  You'll save your nails a lot of wear and tear this way!!

Pro tip: Always use a grit of 180 or above on a natural nail and never use a file to change the length of a nail!  Use your clippers and THEN file only to shape.

...there are five basic nail shapes?  

There are lot's of fun, new trends like stiletto nails, lipstick nails, and duck nails but all or most of these fall into the basic five shapes: round, square, oval, pointed, and squoval.  So with all these choices, how do you know which shape is right for you?  Simply use your cuticle as a guide.  Are your cuticles more of an oval shape?  Then an oval shaped nail will be the best fit for you.  Are they wider and less rounded at the edges? Go with a square shape or a squoval.  Balancing the nail with the cuticle will not only be the most aesthetically pleasing choice for your nails, but it will also allow you to get the most strength and longevity out of them!

Pro tip:  When drastically changing the shape of your nails, go slowly!  Transition from square to round by going first with a squoval shape.  Going from round to square? Simply nip the round tip and file. 

I'm starting up a series of mini blogs titled "Did you know?"  They will feature small tidbits of information and tips and tricks for you to use to help you take care of your nails and improve your nail art. :)  Today will be the first in the series...

Did you know...

If your nails are saturated with water, your polish cannot fully dry until the nail plate is fully dry.  This means when you do a manicure and soak your nails in water, or polish just after a shower or bath you are actually extending the dry time of the polish.  Be extra careful for at least two hours following a water mani or a pedi so you don't mess up all your hard work!!